Help and advice for Rats

Mention them as pets and the response may be muted. Of all pets rodents are met with the greatest ambiguity. For some, rats are dirty, scavenging pests, responsible for carrying the worst diseases in human history: they should be controlled, (never mind invited into one's home). Yet, the rat has a growing band of supporters who defend its status as an intelligent, affectionate pet.
Despite its black past the rat is an inoffensive, friendly creature which delights in human company. Rats are easy to care for, take up little space and need only a little feeding. They are naturally inquisitive pets and will quickly bond with their owners.

Types

Pet rats are the domesticated descendants of the brown rat. Rats come in a variety of colours but the most common are:

Natural wild colour, called agouti.
Albino - white coat and pink eyes.
Self / pure - one colour such as black. Self chocolate, and the self mink (coffee colour). Cream with red eyes are difficult to acquire.
Patched - white body, coloured head and darker areas on back.
Rats can also be long haired, similar to the Angora cat, or with rex coat: slightly curled coat with curly whiskers.

Often owners will buy a pet rat without considering the commitment involved.

Unlike cats and dogs rats are relatively short-lived mammals living an average of four years. Therefore, it is advised that you buy a young rat because they are easier to tame and socialise. Unlike other pets, a baby rat can leave its mother at one month and find a new home.
The whole family should be as enthusiastic as you are about the new pet. Bear in mind that phobias often centre on rats. On a practical level rats are extremely agile, small creatures and will need some dextrous handling. If they escape from your hands they may be difficult to retrieve.
Rats are sociable affectionate animals even in the wild. On a daily basis they will cuddle up to each other, groom and lick each other and chase other members of the group. If a rat has no company it will rely on its owner for comfort, warmth and affection. Not every owner has the desire or inclination to provide this.
Rats can be quite messy. They will leave half eaten food around their cage, gnaw on just about anything, create a lot of dust, and you may get ratty about the smell! (Cleaning makes only a slight difference).

If you are still with us - welcome to the rat club!

Buying

Rats are available through most pet stores and some specialised breeders. Because of their strong constitution, rats do become ill as a result of poor feeding, improper environment or poor breeding.
When buying a pet rat, always make sure it is in the best of health.

A healthy rat will show no signs of lethargy nor should it be dashing frantically around its cage. The cage itself can be an indication of health. Check that cages are adequately sized and in clean condition (no overpowering smells, no build-up of droppings or soiled litter). Animals kept in dirty, stuffy containers should be ignored because their immune systems will be severely weakened and any stress, particularly moving to a new home, could cause illness.
The rat's fur should be shiny and free from bald patches.
If the rat has any scars or irregular markings then it is nothing to fear - the rat has been involved in a rat fight and this is not necessarily an indication of sickness.
The eyes should be bright and shiny, and without tears or staining. The anus should be clean; any signs of diarrhoea - and the animal should receive treatment immediately. Old rats will be noticeably thin and their backs may be distorted. It is best to buy a young rat.

Choice

When choosing your rat be aware that male rats have stronger smells than females but are inclined to live slighter longer. It is often advised to buy more than one rat as it reduces the demands on the owner. A solitary rat will crave human company and this includes bodily contact. By nature rats like to hide in warm, dark crevices - and the human body provides a network of these! A rat will climb up your body or slip beneath your clothes, satisfying its need for warmth and emotional closeness. If you are not keen on this, opt for two rats - either two males or two females, or male/female (be prepared for offspring). The same sex get along quite well especially if they are from the same litter. However, if they are complete strangers supervise the introduction outside the cage beforehand. You can also clean and deodorise the cage so meticulously that the rats are distracted into friendship; strange smells disorientate rats and they will be happy to cling to company. Don't consider keeping rats and mice together as they will not get along.

Cage

Rats are versatile mammals and so a variety of housing may be offered to it. Rats can be homed in a glass tank, a reasonably sized plastic container, vivarium, or a hamster cage. Whatever the structure ensure that air can circulate freely (avoid containers which are deeper than they are wide as this creates moisture retention, which encourages micro-organisms to form). The structure should be at least 39 x16 x 14 inches. If glass tanks are used then they should have a tight fitting mesh lid to prevent the rat from climbing up and escaping. Bird cages have also been used to house rats but be careful that the bars are closely spaced (1 cm or half an inch) to prevent the rat from squeezing out. When buying a cage be aware that the cage door should be doubly secure as rats can open them with relative ease.

Accessorise the cage!

In recent years, opinion has changed as to the most suitable lining for the cage and the traditional bedding of wood shavings has now fallen out of favour. It is thought that wood shavings are the cause of some respiratory problems suffered by pet rats. The recommended bedding for rats is now paper based cat litter or re-cycled cardboard, both of which are hygienic, absorbent and inexpensive to buy. Some owners also recommend an extra layer of cat litter where the rat frequently urinates. Cat litter is excellent in neutralising the smell of rat urine. Rats like to sleep in smaller contained spaces, so provide some upturned clay flower pots, the smaller the better with a hole in the pot for the rat to enter and it will be perfectly happy to sleep, rest and play.

Activity

In the wild rats roam vast areas in the search for food and so in captivity rats will look for similar variety. This can be supplied in a limited form by alternating toys, sleeping tunnels, and changing cage ware. Supply the rat with empty tissue boxes, cardboard cartons or scrunched up paper, and inside, place a piece of food. This will keep the rat occupied as it hunts for the hidden food. Rats also need to gnaw and chew so be careful that play toys are made of durable plastic that doesn't splinter; otherwise it could lacerate the rat's insides. Rats will also appreciate some natural branches on which they can chew and keep their constantly growing teeth in trim.

Feeding

In the wild rats thrive on a wide variety of food, so this should be replicated in the home. It is not sensible to feed a rat human left-overs as rats cannot metabolise salt and spices. Neither should you feed your rat an assortment of spoiled or rotten fruits and vegetables as these cause stomach infections. A rat deserves the best!
Rats rely on carbohydrates for sustained energy so grain is the main component of feeding. Rats can be fed commercial mouse food mixture or the cheaper formulas made for guinea pigs or hamsters. Small proportions of budgerigar and canary feed can be added for variety. Rats can also avail of special pressed food or pellets while some rodents prefer hard, non-mouldy bread, crisp bread or dog treats. These provide added meat, vegetables, vitamins and protein. Cheese is an old favourite and can be given freely as an extra source of protein.
Rats are not in any way choosy so will eat all sorts of fruit and vegetables but avoid onions and cabbage as these cause flatulence.

Drinking bottles

Water should always be in a drinking bottle as rats will dirty water in an open container. Spilt water will also dampen surrounding litter. Feeding containers should be placed on a higher level, like a piece of wood as this prevents them from getting soiled.

Locating the cage

Your home should be prepared for your new rat. In general rats dislike extremes of temperatures; don't place the cage near radiators, fireplaces, direct sunlight or draughty windows or doors. Draughts and tobacco smoke make a rat sick while high temperatures make it tired and listless. Too much noise badly affects a rat, making it nervous and frantic.

Cleaning

A rat's cage should be thoroughly cleaned on a weekly basis: complete removal of litter, toys, food remains, and the cage steeped in a safe disinfectant. Dry the cage before replacing the rat. Cleanliness will protect your rat from infection and disease.

Escape

If a pet rat escapes from its cage be prepared to look everywhere for it. Rats can hide in the smallest, darkest crevices but being an adventurous creature a rat is more likely to sniff and nibble on household items like upholstery and fabrics. However, the real danger lies in electric cables which rats have a tendency to chew.

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