Help and advice for Mice

"Mice are nice." So say the committed keepers of pet mice (We shan't go into the uninvited ones that make themselves at home in our cupboards and come out at night to steal cheese from the trap. It's a sore subject!) Mice are ideal pets: they are small and compact, are easily fed, make little noise, and have loveable personalities. Gentle and quietly inquisitive, a pet mouse can be the sweetest thing.

Types

There are two types of mice raised today: the fancy (pet) mouse and the laboratory mouse. The pet mouse came into prominence around 1900 and since then it has developed into 60 colours and varieties. The most common colours and types are:

Agouti - the natural wild colour similar to that of the wild house mouse
Self (pure) - such as black, which should not show any trace of other colour. The self silver is a light grey colour and self blue is a dark blue smoky grey. Self red is another common type in this group. Tans are similar to the pure colours except they have tan underparts.
Himalayan - patterned type with dark coloured extremities and white body. They are similar to the Siamese cat in markings.
White - albino, normally with red eyes.

What to expect

Mice are attractive pets. Their small shiny bodies, button eyes, soft fur and curious nature make them an irresistible addition to any family. But think before you buy. There are many things to consider. Mice are short lived animals; the average life span is 2 years so it's important their short years are happy, active ones.
Mice will also need their owners to clean up after them. Despite regular cleaning, mice continue to emit an unpleasant odour, especially the males. They also have the habit of leaving half chewed food lying around and gnawing anything in sight.

Two's company

In the wild mice rely on the group for comfort, warmth and security but if a pet mouse is forced to live alone, it will look to its owner for physical contact and reassurance. This may not suit some owners, who would be uncomfortable with a mouse climbing all over them and creeping inside their clothes. Be warned: mice see humans as recreational climbing trees! To save yourself a lot of trouble, buy two mice!
It is acceptable to house the same sex together, particularly if the mice have grown up together. If a male or female are placed together then prepare yourself for an invasion of young ones. Mice are prolific producers. Gaining sexual maturity at 30 - 49 days the babies are born just 22 days later. Mice should not be paired with rats as the two species do not get along.

Buying mice

A healthy mouse will be moderately active. Be wary if the mouse is moving frantically or has jarred movements. Conversely, if it is listless or dull, then it could be symptomatic of illness.
The prospective mouse should be in clean spacious surroundings; if the cage is cramped and foul smelling, the animal's immune system is seriously weakened. In fact the additional stress of moving to a new home could ignite sickness in the rodent.
The animal's fur should be clean, shiny and free from bald patches. The causes of hair loss are difficult to treat and it's probable that the mouse will react badly to the stress of lengthy treatment plus the burdens of adapting to a new home.
Opt for young mice in view of their short lifespan. While it is difficult to assess a mouse's age, you can however detect old mice and know which ones to avoid. A thin mouse with a protruding spine should be ignored as they are generally old.
A mouse's eyes should be clear and bright and free from discharge or staining.
Mice suffering from diarrhoea must be ignored. Diarrhoea in mice is very serious; it rapidly leads to dehydration in the mammal because of its small body mass.
Scars or bites on a mouse are not an indication of sickness. These heal in their own time and result from internal squabbling within the group.

Cage

Mice can be housed in various types of accommodation but the most reliable are disused glass fish tanks, vicarious, plastic containers, hamster cages and bird cages. Each is suitable but certain rules apply. For example, if using a glass tank it should be rectangular in shape; square tanks or those with greater depth than width don't allow air to circulate, causing condensation to form. This in turn becomes a breeding ground for harmful bacteria. Tanks should also have a wooden framed mesh lid, which is tight fitting to prevent the mice from escaping. If using a bird cage ensure that the spacing between the bars is no greater than 0.5 cm or quarter of inch. The recommended cage size for a pair of mice is normally 36 x 12 x 15 inches.

Litter

To keep the cage clean it is necessary to line the cage floor with litter. Wood shavings are hygienic, highly absorbent and don't cost a lot to buy. Spread an inch coverage over the floor and for added effectiveness sprinkle a good quality cat litter in those areas most heavily soiled. Cat litter is useful because it blocks urine odours which are particularly potent.

Hide-outs

Mice like secret dark places as this offers them security and protection from predators. Even in the cage you can supply some tunnels or upturned clay flowerpots (with an opening dug out). A mouse will use these for sleeping in.
A mouse's teeth are constantly growing so they must be worn down by gnawing and chewing if they are to stay in healthy shape. For this reason a mouse should have plenty of chew items: cardboard cartons, hard toys, crusts of hard bread, dog biscuits, etc. If a mouse can't stress its teeth it will chew anything within reach, either plastic containers or toys or the cage itself. This could be dangerous; if the plastic splinters and the mouse swallows it, serious internal injuries could result. It's also possible to place branches in the cage - the mouse will use these to climb on and can gnaw them later. Make sure branches are free from pesticides and harmful substances.

Exercise wheels

Another interesting accessory to the cage could be an exercise wheel. Mice are inclined to go for a run so supply a hamster wheel. From a human point of view the plastic sort are best as they make less noise, but the mouse may chew it.

Drinking bottles

Water should be provided via gravity-fed waterers. These keep the floor of the cage dry and prevent the drinking water from becoming contaminated with urine and rotting food. The drinking bottles can be attached to the side of the cage at the right height for the mouse.

Cage location

Once the cage is complete it is necessary to place it in an appropriate location. This should be away from draughts, radiators and direct sunlight. Draughts and dampness will kill more mice than disease ever will. A mouse exposed to direct sunlight is extremely uncomfortable and nervous and will desperately try to find a way to hide. Instinct tells the mouse that it can be seen and preyed upon. Mice also dislike smoky environments and noise - so the living room is not ideal. If possible keep the cage on an elevated sight as this offers the mouse some security; mice are nervous about objects overhead, because it reminds them of predators in the wild.

Escape

If a mouse escapes from its cage it risks many dangers around the household. Firstly it could be tread underfoot or jammed in doorways or windows. Another possibility is chewing on electric cables. Mice will panic when confronted with new surroundings and this causes them to revert to wild instincts and hide in the most impossible of places - between walls and furniture, behind cupboards, crevices in walls, boxes and in furniture. They can be difficult to find again once loose from their cages so it is best to ensure that the cage is safely secured at all times.

Diet

Mice need a varied diet if they are to function properly. Human left-overs are not suitable as mice cannot digest salts and spices. Mice should be fed grains such as commercially produced mouse mixture, or hamster or guinea-pig feeds as they are equally as nutritious. Some pet stores have pressed foods which guarantee a complete, balanced diet for mice. As a treat mice can be fed brown bread and milk which is high in calcium and aids growth in young mice.
They will also eat hard crusts of bread, which help their teeth, and dog treats which are high in protein and vegetable minerals. Mice can be fed lettuces, cucumbers, carrot, celery, apples, hard pears and berries. However don't feed acidic fruits such as kiwi fruit or oranges as mice cannot digest them in large amounts. Yoghurts and cheese give extra protein.
It's best to feed mice in the evenings when they are most active. Always leave a little extra food in the evenings to prevent mice from getting hungry during the night. Don't worry about overfeeding mice - they do not gorge their food and will only eat enough to fulfil their needs.

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