Help and advice for Gerbils

The gerbil makes an ideal pet being small, clean and easily cared for. Gerbils are naturally inquisitive and boisterous animals so they are guaranteed to make life a little more colourful.
Gerbils have around 100 different types including the Pallid variety (from North Africa) and the Bushy-Tailed (from Egypt and Arabia). The Shaw's Jird is also part of the same family, slightly bigger than gerbils, but very quickly becoming more popular and readily available. However, the most common gerbil is the pet gerbil or Mongolian gerbil classified as meriones unguiculatus. The Mongolian gerbil originates from southern Mongolia and northern China.

Physique

While gerbils may resemble mice, they have a denser coat and a tail with a busy tip. The gerbil's ears are also smaller while its body is more curved. Unlike the hamster or mouse, the gerbil has long hind legs. Facially the gerbil is fuller in the cheeks than a mouse.
Male gerbils are normally slightly larger than females. Gerbils come in a wide range of colour mutations: the most common being its natural wild brownish colour (otherwise known as agouti). This pattern makes an excellent camouflage against the sandy semi-desert terrain in which most gerbils live. Other colours include: black (non-agouti), albino, chinchilla, blue, lilac, dove, cream and white patterned forms.

Buying

Gerbils are very social creatures that should not be kept singly. They do best when kept in pairs or groups - therefore consider buying two, preferably from the same litter. (You may find brothers get along better than sisters). This reduces the problems of introducing two unfamiliar animals. Gerbils live to the age of three years and possibly five years if well cared for. Young gerbils can be bought from the age of eight weeks and often these are the best buy as they are more adaptable and bond quicker with humans. In fact, you can estimate the age of a gerbil by looking at its tail. The tail grows quickly to 2-3 inches during the first six weeks and then grows more slowly until it reaches 4 inches when it is one year old.
When buying a gerbil ensure its living conditions are clean and the animals are healthy. Check for the following signs:

Coat - should be smooth and sleek with no indication of flaky encrustations or bald areas.
Skin - free from any swellings, cuts or abrasions. Swellings can be alarming as they may indicate a tumour.
Eyes - should be round, clear and open. There should be no signs of weeping.
Nostrils - should be free from discharge.
Ears - should be short, erect and non-wrinkled.
Anal region should be free from diarrhoea and hardened faecal matter.

Feet should be clawed. The front paws should be dry. (If wet, the animal may be wiping its nose with its feet).
Teeth - the upper incisor teeth should be situated just over, but touching those of the lower jaw. If the teeth are not properly aligned then feeding will become difficult or impossible.

Housing

Gerbils are happiest when housed in groups or pairs. You should not keep gerbils with other small rodents such as hamsters or mice as they will fight. Gerbils have a need for social contact and will regularly groom each other and share common sleeping quarters. Several structures are available for gerbils - aquariums, tube habitats and cages.
An aquarium has the advantage of being easy to clean, transparent, available in a number of sizes to suit your finances and easily furnished. An ideal size is 24 x 18 x 12 inches. The aquarium will need a hood, or a weld wire mesh cover to prevent the gerbil from jumping out.
Hamster cages are equally suitable and come in a variety of designs. In some models the metal top detaches from the plastic base for easy cleaning. Others use sheet metal for the base. The problem with this is that it becomes rusty with urine.
Tube habitats consist of a system of tubes, with each connected to the other. The idea is to replicate the gerbil's natural home of burrows and labyrinths but this system is slightly more expensive than a cage and it is more difficult to clean.

Bedding

Bedding should be absorbent, long lasting, and hygienic. Sawdust, for example, is very absorbent but it does have drawbacks: it can irritate a gerbil's eyes and nostrils, and clings to the anal region. It is also messy especially if it clings to moist foods. If swallowed it can create intestinal problems.
Hay can also be used but it too poses problems: it may contain bacterial spores or the eggs of parasites.
Instead, some experts recommend using three layers of materials. The bottom layer is a mixture of sand and cat litter. The sand is ideal because gerbils love to play, scratch and bathe in it, while its abrasive texture keeps their claws in trim. The cat litter on the other hand, is hygienic and absorbent and keeps the bedding cleaner for longer. A second layer can then be added. This should consist of chewable items like wood shavings, twigs, cardboard pieces which keep a gerbil's teeth in trim. The top layer can consist of nesting materials. The best choices are wood fibre, wood shavings or pulp bedding material. Always ensure the gerbil has 10 inches (25 cm) of space between the bottom and top of the cage.

Furnishings

Gerbils will benefit from exercise as this keeps them mentally and physically alert. An exercise wheel is therefore advised. Wooden toys or branches from fruit trees can also be given to gerbils as they exercise its jaws and keep its ever-growing incisor teeth short and sharp.

Cleaning

Gerbils are conditioned to be clean creatures. Because gerbils live in desert conditions they have specially developed cells that store water. This means they drink and urinate less than some other rodents, making them relatively odourless creatures.
Even in captivity gerbils need very little cleaning - apart from a daily removal of droppings and uneaten foods - the cage only needs a thorough clean once a month. If using disinfectants for cleaning, be sure to rinse the cage properly afterwards as gerbils have a highly developed sense of smell. After cleaning, gerbils will re-mark their territory with their scent.

Cage location

Avoid placing your gerbil's cage in direct sunlight, or near windows or radiators. Gerbils are generally robust animals but they will become ill if exposed to changing temperatures. The cage should not be placed on the ground because at ground level temperatures are unstable even with central heating. It is therefore best to place the cage on an elevated spot.

Diet

Gerbils tend to eat what they like - rather than what is good for them. Therefore it's important they have the correct balance of healthy foods. Gerbils are herbivores, which means they live on seeds, fruits and vegetables. Pet gerbils should be fed a combination of dried commercial foods and a range of fresh fruits and vegetables. Hamster pellets are excellent for gerbils while cockatiel and wild bird seed are equally suitable. However, don't overfeed gerbils with parrot seed as it contains too many sunflower seeds, which are high in fat and protein.
On average a gerbil will eat 10 grammas of dry food per day and a teaspoon of water. Nevertheless, smaller amounts of water may be consumed, particularly if the gerbil is fed quantities of fruit and vegetables, which have high water content. Gerbils can be fed carrots, cucumbers and cooked potatoes. Uncooked beans and green potatoes are poisonous while lettuce and spinach should be avoided as they are high in nitrates. Introduce vegetables and fruits slowly and don't feed in large amounts as it can cause stomach upsets and diarrhoea. Gerbils will also eat dandelions but be sure to wash the plant beforehand. Hard biscuits and bread are recommended as they satisfy the gerbil's need to chew. Avoid sugary treats like chocolate because it harms the gerbil's teeth and sugar is not easily digested.
In the wild gerbils eat some animal protein foods - insects and other invertebrates - but most owners will avoid feeding their gerbil such foods. A more pleasant option is to feed other foods high in animal proteins - yoghurt, cottage cheese and a little cooked egg from time to time.
Gerbils are best fed in the mornings and evenings. Try and feed moist foods at night as the food will stay fresh longer and gerbils are more active at night. Don't leave food on offer to gerbils all the time as it will overeat.

Health

Provided a gerbil is properly cared for it is unlikely to develop serious health problems. However, if your gerbil is ill it will display the following signs: lethargy, excessive scratching, muscle twitching, sudden and erratic movement for no reason, lack of interest in food or water, excessive drinking, vomiting and difficulty in moving. A common condition in gerbils is stress, which can stem from various sources - lack of space, unclean conditions, excessive disturbance (switching on and off of lights), inadequate diet or boredom. If a gerbil is stressed it will behave in an alarming manner: cage bar biting, self-mutilation, pacing at the cage bars, excessive eating or drinking and mood swings and aggression. If you suspect your gerbil to be in ill health - then contact your vet. A gerbil's rapid metabolism normally ensures a quick recovery but the illness must be caught in time.

Did you know ...

The latin name for gerbil is "meriones unguiculatus". "Meriones" is the Greek word for Warrior while the Persian god of war was Meriones. "Unguiculatus" is Latin for "with claws," thus gerbil literally translates as "Warrior with claws". This arises from the gerbil's warrior-like ability to defend its territory.

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