Help and advice for Chinchillas

First discovered during the Spanish conquest of South America in the 1500s, the chinchilla richly deserves a place in any home. Entertaining, small and odourless they are practical pets with few care instructions. Its appearance is unprecedented in the rodent family. Its squirrel-like tail, large mouse-like eyes, uncommon ears and dense silky fur make it a unique pet.

Chinchillas are a small nocturnal genus of the rodent family related to squirrels, guinea pigs, mice, hamsters and gerbils. Some types of chinchilla have long been extinct, due to the demand for their luscious silky fur used for warm lightweight clothes. Today, the two most widespread chinchilla types are the broad-headed and the pointed-headed. The broad-headed (or brevicaudata) type has a short broad head with round eyes, a solid body build and thick almost woolly fur of light to medium grey colour. The pointed-headed (or lanigera) appears thinner due to its longer body and longer ears. As its fur is a darker grey and more evenly grown, it attracts attention on two fronts: from fur traders and from pet owners. The pointed head is in fact the regular pet chinchilla.

The chinchilla is a social animal that needs lots of contact with others, so owners should be prepared to devote a lot of time to their new pet. Young males become tame the fastest and perhaps make the better pet.

Diet

In order to understand the nature of our pets it is necessary to research their diet long before they came to us. In their natural habitat in the Andes chinchillas survive on a vegetarian diet. For most of the year they rely on dry berries, roots, dry grasses and tree bark. The chinchilla's long intestinal tract helps it optimise what few nutrients are in the food. In captivity the uptake of roughage must be maintained by the consumption of hay, dry fruit and twigs. The chinchilla's diet consists of 4 components: hay, ready made feed/ pellets, water and supplemented foods.

Hay must be taken from fields not sprayed with chemicals and it must be thoroughly dried with no sign of dampness. If the chinchilla is deficient in some vitamins, a supplement can be added to its water.

Readymade feed or pellets are available in pet shops. A level tablespoon of either is sufficient in the morning and provides a more than adequate feed for the animal.

Treat foods help vary the chinchilla's diet, so feed some raisins, rose hips and dried thistle once in while. Meanwhile branches of fruit trees and willows, with the bark intact, give added nutrients while providing an opportunity for sharpening gnawing teeth. Bread or pumice stones can also be used for gnawing on. Slices of apple each day will do no harm either and certain green plants (eg. dandelion leaves) can be given in small doses without any adverse effects.

Chinchillas are dawn and dusk feeders so it is important to feed them at the same time morning and evening. The morning feed should be light and conducive to the daytime rest period. The evening meal should be energy boosting in preparation for the night's activity ahead.

Grooming

Due to the density of a chinchilla's coat it will shed every three months. The fur of chinchillas is composed of 2 different types of hair. The brush is the type that gives the fur its thickness. It is extremely light, and loose hairs are common - they should be balled together gently with the fingers and discarded. The second hair type is bristle; the stiffer, thicker hairs give form to the hair, straightening it up and making it resilient. The chinchilla's fur can be combed to rid it of excess loose hair; the process also vastly improves its appearance while "bathing" keeps the coat clean. In the wild Chinchillas don't bathe in water but finely ground sand and dust, which frees the coat from excess oils and moisture. In captivity a bath of dust, sand, or grit and talcum will be sufficient to keep the coat clean. Being nocturnal creatures it is best to offer a bath first thing in the morning, following an active night.

Cage

Cages should be at least 24 x 24 x 22 inches to allow chinchilla's sufficient room for manoeuvre. The cages can be either solid or wire bottomed. Those that have solid bottoms are perhaps easier to maintain and are more comfortable for the animal. They often have a pan that can be pulled out like a drawer to facilitate cleaning. Two or three inches of litter such as wood shavings are then placed in the cage. Avoid plastic cages as the chinchilla will chew through it. The chinchilla is a fastidious creature and will keep a designated toilet area within the cage. Wire bottom cages allow droppings and loose feed to fall through openings in the cage floor. This allows the owner to check droppings for signs of ill health. The wire cages are generally healthier for the chinchilla because it has no contact with its waste or contaminated food which is a breeding ground for bacteria. Wire-bottomed cages only require a weekly clean.

Accessories

The cage should be equipped with a water bottle, which protects the contents from the chinchilla's urine. A feed container should be available, preferably attached to the side of the cage, to prevent it from getting damp and soiled. A chinchilla will need a hayrack and toys for gnawing. This could be a block of wood on which the chinchilla can also sit or sleep, or a pumice stone. Meanwhile a few perches allow the chinchilla to keep active and a ceramic pipe, at least 4 inches in diameter and 12 inches long, serves as a refuge for the animal. A bath bowl should also be supplied.

Cage location

When housing chinchillas it is essential to remember that they can tolerate cold but not dampness. Being nocturnal creatures they will be more active during the hours of darkness and sleep by day. They should therefore be housed where possible, in a cool, quiet, damp free place away from heat sources. In the wild chinchillas fear all-round exposure as it makes them vulnerable to predators, so a pet chinchilla will be comforted by a cage located next to a wall or corner. This gives added peace of mind for the animal.

Health

Chinchillas are usually healthy, robust animals and, if fed and housed properly, in a clean environment, they should remain that way. However if they lack interest at mealtimes and remain in the corner of their cage some health problem should be suspected.

Reduction in droppings, constipation can be diagnosed. This is caused by overfeeding, changes in the location of the feed or associated stresses. If left untreated can cause intestinal prolapse and occlusion.
Irregular droppings - light tan in colour, soft and liquid. If diarrhoea is suspected, extra roughage should be added to diet, i.e. hay. If the droppings do not get harder the chinchilla may have an intestinal ailment brought on by spoiled food. Consult vet in prolonged cases.
Skin fungus - attacks the smooth skin surfaces of the feet, ears and nasal area. Skin becomes lacklustre and scaly. The sand bath should be changed and the vet consulted.
Transparent teeth indicate a calcium deficiency. Normally the incisors should be creamy yellow or light brown in colour but never white. Tooth problems are a serious problem in chinchillas. The top teeth should overlap the bottom set and they should be straight. Serious tooth defects can affect a chinchilla's digestion and psychological well-being.
Wet, patchy fur or hair loss is caused by fur eating. This usually affects chinchillas in large groups and those that are bored or nervous. The condition is also caused by the stress of inactivity, insomnia or too much noise. The room might also be too humid or uncomfortable causing the chinchilla to become unsettled enough to chew on its fur.
Other symptoms of illness include: loss of balance, unsteadiness and discharge from eyes, ears or nose.
A general indicator of health is the ears. If they are pink or red in colour and hot to the touch, then the chinchilla has a temperature.

The chinchilla is a twilight rodent with large dark eyes to help it see and get around in the dark. It therefore dislikes strong sunlight.

Chinchilla is a member of the rodent family. Rodent comes from the Latin word "rodere" meaning to gnaw.

A chinchilla uses its forepaws almost like a squirrel does. It sits on its hind legs that are more developed and thus permit it to hop away quickly, almost like a kangaroo.

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